Apologies for minimal posts, recently I've been having a little break from setting at Vaux to gain some inspiration, but have still been setting at XC (mainly routes). I've also been trying to climb more lead to get my endurance up and helping Frankie improve. Even had a staff social at Vaux with all the regular customers which after a poor warm up and jumping onto a V7 about 5 routes in... POP! Partial tear in my A4, right hand ring finger.... Which f****** sucks.
What's even worse was the following couple of day as I was meant to be back setting with my all time favourite setter, Yann Genoux. Instead of what normally happens with me setting the VIntro, V0-1, V2-4, and V4-6 circuits and Yann on the others in between, Yann had the hard and me on the soft which was fair enough. Yann annoyingly made the whole set my styled with big techy moves with massive slopers! When it came to testing time, I was dying to get on but only just touched some of the easier routes and stopped before making things worse.
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| Yann on his Murple V7+ |
Luckily, Tom 'the boss', must have known I would've damaged myself and had given me 9 days of work in a row just to help keep my mind off things.... This didn't exactly help with everyone enjoying the recent set, a student dyno comp, and a VauxComp set by Gaz Parry and Dave Barrans. It's been like an itch I can't scratch! In the meantime I've been doing a lot more core training, assisted one arm pull ups and climbing one handed, which I suggest trying (incredibly good for balance! - especially for lead climbers).
But Thursday was the day! 2 weeks after the tear, with icing 3 times a day (2 days on 1 off), finger massaging, some antagonistic work, some anti-grav hangs, and taping, I am back trying some of the V0-V4 funcomp set. No dynamic moves or super overhangs and it feels fairly decent. Not exactly what Robin O'Leary would like to hear but thanks for the very helpful article on UKC! For those in a similar situation please read it!
Hopefully I shall be back and ready for setting at Milton Keynes on the 16th, a trip to the lakes for the challenge the following weekend and setting at Kendal wall on the Monday!
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