It's been a fair while since my last post and it's mainly because I've been getting my head down with the busy winter period with work and haven't really had much time outside either. Also many other things have been going on since then which has affected me the past few months.
Luna cruising in Font
To start with, a fairly quick update since Kalymnos. Came back for a week and a bit, headed out to Font with a few juniors that I coach. Had a fairly decent time will most of them getting 6b's or 6b+'s. Came back for about 2 weeks then headed over to Spain with Claire who I met in Kalymnos with Rocup. Stayed in this little AirBnB sharing with this random dude who was kinda weird. Went to SharmaBCN on the first day out there as it was mega windy all day. Ended up getting lost looking for climbing in Siurana so decided to go to Margalef for the rest of the week. Climbed a lot of 6's until the last few days where we stepped it up to 7a's.
Sun down in Margalef on the last day
Both of us ended up onsighting and flashing a few 7's. I got recommended this 7b that I climbed bolt to bolt. Gave it another go and messed up the low crux at the start, belayed Claire and attempted it again. Had my feet slip through the lower crux but carried on an recovered, hit the last clip, pumped out my mind, holding 2 bad holds trying to clip, just about managed to clip it, then dropped it. The next hold was a bucket jug... literally 3 moves from the chains. Gutted. The last climb of the whole trip too.
Now back in the UK, setting a ton at Vaux and preparing for Harrow to open plus some other things going on in the works. And since Kalymnos, I've been hooked on lead rather than bouldering. I have also managed to book a 3 week trip back out to Kalymnos with Claire which I'm super psyched for!
My current training ground - Westway
Climbing indoors, I've been flashing 7b's consistently and attempting to lap them. The other day I was at Whitespider and managed to eventually crush my project of a 7b+! My first ever 7b+ too. Not long after that climb, looked at this 7c, dropped it on the last move due to hesitation, belayed a mate and topped some 7a's, got back on the 7c and cruised it! Not only made a PB in one session but made a second PB too! Stoked!
Even tried my hand at competing in one of the Blokfest events this year for which I came 16th/91! All due to silly mistakes and a fear of tweaking my fingers. Considering about competing at the next 2 Blokfest rounds but we shall see.
Now onto the main reason for this post... word of warning, this bit gets a little deep.
So recently I've been through a lot of various different tough things at home. Early November, while waiting for a train to head to London for a massage and climb, I watched someone jump in front of a train. Not the prettiest sight to see and I know there was nothing I could do to stop it but if I was 2mins later, I would've been right next to the lass.
Afterwards in London, I couldn't comprehend how no one else even knew what happened or even cared, and my view on it was "if the world doesn't seem to care, why should I? It's not like the world will stop revolving for one person". Its a pretty morbid way of thinking but then again so true.
On the way back home, trains were still delayed and I kept overhearing conversations about how "some idiot has jumped in front of a train" with no sensitivity towards it. Especially after watching it, it's a hard thing to hear and does hit you a bit. It's hard not to offend everyone but next time an incident like this happens that puts you out of your way, please be a little more sensitive about it.
From this, I think it's had a knock on effect with other things and being the time of year too has made me realise how lonely I've been. All my friends live in London which makes it awkward to see them or just chill out with, my best friend has moved 6 hours away and the single life has also started to affect me. Not only that but I haven't been sleeping, getting mainly 2-3 hours a night, I haven't been eating that much either, and I've started having panic and anxiety attacks too. I've spoken to a few people experienced in this who reckon that I have PTSD.
With an overthinking mind like mine, this has also put a lot of stress on me in general and has even brought out my social awkwardness making it 10 times harder to strike up a conversation with someone, especially if I don't know them. I'm fine if someone else starts talking to me but I may struggle with what to say. If you do see me, don't hesitate to talk to me as it'll help me get used to it.
I've also been very emotional sensitive. Like one minute I'll be super happy and stoked about something, then 5 seconds later, I'll be in tears about something someone may have said days ago which may not have been directly aimed at me. Please don't start worrying about it and please don't constantly ask me if I'm okay. If I want to talk about it I will, but continually asking me will get annoying.
Dreaming of being back in Kaly: Liam Lonsdale
By now you're probably thinking what this has anything to do with climbing. So climbing for me began as something fun then quickly became a release from daily life after I stopped snowboarding. Just to escape the stress of the world and have something to focus on. With climbing there are so many things that you need to think of which do keep you preoccupied which has helped me get through school life, ex girlfriends and various other things.
Now, climbing has given me a distraction away from these bad feelings, keeping me focussed on what I want with climbing, what I need to do to get better and how I'm going to do it. It doesn't make it go away, but it does help give you those few hours of happiness or time away from these things, even if it's a high gravity day. If anything, because of the way I've been feeling, I've been climbing more and my grade has been improving very quickly which, in turn, is increasing my overall happiness and making more psyched for Kalymnos in April.
Setting VauxComp #16 with Will Jackson
I've been speaking with a fair amount of people about my recent problems and you'd be surprised how you're really not alone, in and out of the climbing industry. It's said about 1 in 4 people suffer from some form of mental illness, from anxiety issues to depression to autism to even things like dyslexia. But if you at all are having trouble with anything, be it thinking of suicide, having a bad day, something small or feeling low, DO NOT HESITATE to talk to people as you're not alone! Even if you feel like you are, there is always someone out there to talk to. It could be your parent, your best friend, your boss, your neighbour, complete stranger, a professional, your sisters boyfriends great grandma! They may have been through something similar. It helps a lot either way, even to get everything off your chest so someone else knows what you're going through.
It's not easy to admit that you have troubles going on or mental illnesses, especially being a guy in this day and age showing weakness but understand that it's okay and people will be there for you.
So my 2017 has started off pretty badly but I have my goals, my climbing's improving and I've got this amazing opportunity coming up with work and Kalymnos which I can't wait for. I've also got a great bunch of friends who I can't thank enough for listening to me moan over the past few months of how I've been feeling and helping me try to get through this. I also want to put a special mention in here for my Mum that I've gotten really close to because of this. She has always been there for me in this tough time and I can't thank her enough for it.
Will hopefully keep you all posted about the next few mini trips I may have and an overall post about Blokfest that has been going on over the past few months.
Feels like it's been ages since I wrote my last blog and been away climbing, so I thought it was about time.
Robin had invited me to join him and the Rocup gang ages ago but only began to think about it fairly recently. With lack of funding, I didn't even think this would be a possibility. But parents were begging me to join them on a holiday but with my nature, I can't sit and relax like they can, so instead they offered to pay for my holiday. For anyone who doesn't know where Kalymnos is, it's a Greek island, not too far from Kos that hosts some of the most amazing tufa lines and limestone sport climbing the world has to offer. I'm not really a fan of tufas and pinches but I think I'm beginning to be converted after this trip and was a little sceptical of how well I'd climb.
With last minute bookings meaning I couldn't join Robin or others with their travel/flights I ended up flying out to Rhodes which worked out a little cheaper, spending the night there, then getting a morning ferry to head over. Upon arrival into Kalymnos, I had no idea where I was going or anything about the island, hailed a taxi and travelled to the hotel. During the drive to Masouri, you come down this winding road only to reveal the island of Telendos just chilling in the bluest sea you have ever seen. Absolutely stunning! First day, I didn't climb but Robin, Danny, Cailean and Ben were already out and had a fairly decent start. When they got back, had a little chill on the beach, grabbed my transport - a meaty ATV quad, then headed over to Telendos for some dinner... Only to be swarmed by cats! Reasons for the quad: I'm bad on 2 wheels, easier to drive, can fit more gear on there.
Claire Berdick
Next morning, 7am start, head for breakfast, marvel at the sun coming onto Telendos, get packed up then track over to Odyssey. With a warm up of this 6a which felt hard, mainly because I was new to the rock and haven't lead outdoors in a while so was probably holding on for dear life. That and getting pumped from being a boulderer and only able to do 12 moves max. After, I think we tried a 6b (I can't remember) and then moved onto 'Feta' (6c). This beautiful line with these massive tufas and a low down crux. The plan was to go for an onsite, but again due to fear, got way too pumped out getting into the first knee bar rest and just couldn't recover for the life of me. After finishing the route, I came down to repeat it clean which felt so much better now knowing the moves and being able to focus on that rather than thinking about falling. the other guys tried this 7a+ next to it that I forget the name. Robin then looks at this 7c+ over left that looks insane. He leads it and I try and top rope it but it's just nails. We end the day, head back and grab some food only for the rest of the Rocup climbers to join us.
The first real Rocup day. The team gather for breakfast and we head to Arginonta. A short little trek, we get the fresh Petzl kit out, get paired up and start climbing. I was paired with Ian for the first part. We started up this 5c, quickly moving onto 6a, 6b then this 6b+/6c called 'Anna-Maria'. A fairly juggy start into some slightly balanced moves, ending in some big power moves and sharp crimps. Mega fun line that I cut the back of my wrist on and still have a fairly deep scratch mark 10 days after.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
Now to try some harder bits. We headed towards the left side of the crag to have a look at this 7a called 'Electra'. This looked like a fairly juggy route with a good crack line up and then some harder moves at the top, still fairly do-able looking. Ian goes bolt to bolt and seems to do alright but this top section looks HARD. Claire and Hazel then get on and also make it looks pretty stiff, even with Robins beta. My turn to get on it and it seemed fine up until that crux point. Then it kicked in. The way Robin was saying was to go from this left hand side pull to this dirt spike, flip the left hand then bump the right into this decent crimp, adjust the feet then into the side pull jug. I tried it this way and it just felt way too spanned. After a few attempts at the move, I decide to spin things around a bit and go straight into the undercut left hand, clip, go right hand to the spike, adjust the feet then go right hand again. This saved so much more energy and felt smooth on the extra try on the way down.
With the sun approaching fast, everyone else has a good go at it but all seem to drop at this crux and no one manages it. I try and give it another go to claim it clean but the route is completely in the sun now. I get up to the crux, into the undercut, clip, get the feet good, lock into position only to slap up and keep searching around for the holds that were way further right... The chalk marks just blended into the rock and I completely lost the holds. Everyone was shouting right but I was so in the zone that I was ignoring them. I was even asking/shouting where it was and still blanked them! Dropped. With everyone now tired, we headed back, had an analysis, grabbed some dinner and a well earned kip.
Day 2 began the same but with a slightly earlier start. This time to head out to the Grande Grotta/Panorama. A 10min drive and a steep 30min walk, we approach this massive cave with giant stalactites all through the roof that looked incredible! We split off into teams and began our warm ups. I was paired with Roland (Robins brother) and started up 'Uncle Bert' (I think), this, what felt like a long tufa line with hard to read holds and movement as there were so many holds that looked good and that people chalked. We both topped and then moved onto 'Cyclops' (6c).
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
Photo: Claire Berdick
Rolo was the first up 'Cyclops' with these cool tufa lines to a sit down rest he moves across the next tufas into this giant undercut hole. With a quick rest and some hard moves he unfortunately drops it and can't quite get the move. With a little bit of battling, he makes the moves onto this good rest. At this point Robins shouting about some knee bar rest that just doesn't seem to work. The holds are decent enough to get a rest but not hands free. The next part is definitely the hardest bit though, it's a move up into this 2 finger left hand pocket, right hand to a crimp then bumps to a sloper, left foot on this not so good tufa foothold and push to the what looks like a flat crimp. On my turn I get to this point and keep moving back and forth from this down to the rest and back up as I'm not committed to trusting the foot. After wasting time and not getting anywhere I shout to Liam (the photographer) asking if the hold was a jug... Which he laughs at me. I go for the hold and its huge! I don't know why I just didn't commit but I know that if I did earlier, everything would've felt 10x easier.
Example photo from Google
We pack up and head for the main attraction, the Grotta. Many of you may have seen photos of it before but may not have known where it was. We headed over to this route called 'Ivi' which Robin believes I can flash - this used to get 7b last year but has been downgraded to 7a+. Last year Alex Megos campussed this. After watching Rolo go bolt to bolt, I pluck up the courage and give it a whirl. With some very juggy tufas which I struggle to find I make my way to the crux section. Megos made a campus rollover last year and I try the feet on version but doesn't seem to feel so great, so I bump instead, match, then knee bar. A quick shake then move up into the no hands rest. Moving on quickly into the next juggy line, I come up to this section with harder to find holds, getting fairly pumped. With my breathing getting heavier I come into the final knee bar and clip the chains! My first 7a+ flash outdoors!
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
With some rest and the sun gaining and everyone trying 'DNA' just to the left of 'Ivi', it's my turn to strip it and do it quick. I decide to second this instead just to make it easier in the roof. Being the idiot that I am, I smother myself in sun cream so now my hands are greasy, and as I go up taking the draws out making myself heavier. I get into the good no hand rest, shake and move onto to the bridging/back rest. Now, as far as excuses go, this is bad, but as soon as I put my back against the tufa, it just doesn't want to stick, I can feel my greasy sun creamed back just sliding out and decide that I have just just go for it. Which was a fairly big mistake as I drop it about 2 clips from the end. I'm not that pumped at this point but just get straight back on, I come up to this good tufa, get my right foot high and begin to rock over. My bad knee begins to lock and I can feel it as it compresses. Moving off the knee I feel (and hear) the massive pop as pain shoots all the way through my knee, get the last hold and clip the chains. Coming down I feel the release of pain and chill out for a bit. This has happened before climbing and the pain changes every so often. Sometimes it'll lock and pop and I'll be on the floor for 30mins in pain or it'll be super painful at first and feel nothing afterwards - My doctor says osteoarthritis from snowboarding whereas my physio says cartilage damage. In a way it was kind of lucky that the pain went quick but I didn't want to push it. Especially on the steep decent. Back home, analyse, dinner, all to prepare for the rest day.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
Rest day, the coaches went off to climb, the other guys go off to Sikati cave to explore whereas myself and Claire decide to head to Telendos for a bit of a relaxing explore and sunbathe. All the way across we can see the Grotta from the island as well as all the giant caves on Telendos that look incredibly inviting. With both myself and Claire being mainly boulderers, we discover some little boulders that don't look particularly hard, never been touched and have a play about. Fairly sharp and nothing that interesting, we chill out along a pier... All for my stupid flip flop to be blown into the sea :( we head back for dinner and to meet this years pro climber. Alex Megos. I didn't know what I was expecting but he has some great banter, he's really funny/witty, and was way shorter than I was expecting - and this guy is good at everything.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
Wednesday was the day for 2 areas and onsights. We started off in Arhi where I was with Mo and Victoria. I climbed a 6a slab warm up then moved onto a 6b slab. I don't know what it was but I really struggled with this. The holds were good (but sharp), the feet where good but I just broke down. I just couldn't do it. I spent ages on one section trying to move across and it just wasn't happening. Moved through that and onto the next where again, I just couldn't. I pulled in on the rope and just completely lost it. I have never in my life had that moment where I've been brought to tears just because I couldn't do this one move. I couldn't stop thinking that "this is a 6b, why can't I do this". The other times I had flashed 7's and other 6's that were harder but I just couldn't move. After a long break on the wall, I finish, strip the route, come down and have another meltdown. I was just so annoyed at myself and just couldn't get this thought out of my head.
With everyone being really supportive, Robin suggests I should try this 7a called 'Kastor' where the other guys were. To make it up to him I say I'm going to fully onsite it, no beta, no watching anyone else, just me, and that's it. Before this, Robin insists that I get my head back in and try 'Thetis', this 6b bridging problem, left of this massive tufa. I race up that and get my moves set out for 'Kastor'.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
'Kastor' looked perfect for me. Big powerful boulderey moves with good rests in between. I start up the slab and onto the the route, working my way up these juggy tufas into this big crux move to these huecos. I didn't realise there was a jug the far side and got so narrow minded, hit the sloper got my heel on the tufa and pulled into the crimp. This felt pretty easy, no harder than a V2/3 move. Pulled into the undercut then into the compressed knee bar rest. I was mega worried that my knee would lock again but it felt good throughout. Carried on through the next tufa section and to the chain! Psyched! I was back onto with my highest onsight. From complete breakdown to PB outdoors. We packed up and headed over to Odyssey for everyone to get used to this sector and pick out their climbs for projecting.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
On arrival, Robin suggests I should attempt to flash 'Lucky Luca' (7a+). Megos gets up and puts the draws in, all with the challenge of doing it in flip flops. Makes it look like nothing. Robin talks me and Ian through the beta and Ian goes bolt to bolt. From my view the route looks hard but what I didn't realise was that there are massive rests all the way up. 2 moves, rest, 2 moves rest, etc. Once Ian had enough, it was my turn. The first 2 clips, easy jugs then into this hard V4 sequence, right hand out to this octopus looking pinch, flick the feet over (heel), left hand to this shallow slot, right hand to this dirt punch, bump up to a slightly better pinch, left foot high, left hand out to what looks like a juggy pinch and this is where I clipped but should've done the next move as it was a massive juggy pinch then clipped. From here it's then 2 moves into a great frogging rest.
Next comes good undercut, giant feet, cross through to another undercut, left hand to a pinch, right hand to an undercut slotted tufa then big flake, clip and rest. Big undercut pocket, height feet, work up the right hand pinch then left hand out to this big shoulder flake with a massive rest (giant feet). After its just working up this tufa which is all fairly juggy to the top which a lot of people tend to drop it as the last hold is a slopey jug. I clamped my feet around the tufa while Robin was shouting for my to get a knee bar which, 1 couldn't see and 2, didn't feel I needed. Again back to the hotel, analyse and dinner. Robin and I discuss the meltdown and he says that after that I climbed great and just need to twist more which is due to being square when bouldering, but otherwise my tech is spot on.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
Thursday was a pretty good day for me. Again 7am start, breakfast, view Telendos, pack and head out to Odyssey again for working projects. I warmed up on 'Feta', this felt mega easy this time as I raced up it and only gaining mild pump.. I then move on to looking at 'Sirene'. Danny and Hazel were both eyeing up this 35m 7c. Both of them looked strong on it yesterday and I though I'd bolt to bolt it and see if I can smash it. The first section didn't feel that bad up until the rest, then it got progresively harder. Into some fairly bouldery moves, where the others go left hand into this pinch, right hand into a slot, left hand out into a positive but small side pull, then roll over to sloper with feet going back and forth. I try this but it doesn't feel right and decide to go left hand to the pinch, right to the slot, left to the crimp, right hand into the pinch which is by your chest, then left hand to the sloper, match and then jug. This is more of a power way of doing it but there's less faff off the feet. After its then into some good holds with mega big moves that you have to full commit to then into some crimps to finish. With 35m of climbing and the crux being at the top, I decide to sack it off as I know I'm going to be super pumped by then and unable to do it. I come down and join Claire who had just completed 'Amphora' this shorter 7b next to it for which she talks me through the beta.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
With Megos also showing me the beta and being happy with the moves, I step up to the route aiming to flash. I can feel my heart literally pick up the pace as soon as I clip the first draw! Luckily you can clip from the first move and chill out with no hands. I continue to proceed on the route, using my rests wisely as the last moves are easily droppable with pump. I come to the last rest which isn't amazing, right hand on a jug, left on a slopey pocket. My left hand was recovering but didn't have enough time for my right to recover. I spent about 2mins trying to get something back but it wasn't getting any better (nor worse) and just thought I'd go for it. Right hand goes out to juggy side pull, left hand out into the crimp rail and this pump just comes out of nowhere! I can feel my elbow raising super high, I bring my hand hand in to this dirty offset pocket and through to the top hold. ITS A JUG! I mis-hit it though and in my pumped state just manage to creep over the top and claim it! 7b FLASH!!!!! New PB's this trip. I decide I didn't want to try anything else and end on a high, belaying everyone else for the day and giving beta to 'Lucky Luca'. Again we head back, discuss and review the videos and you can see how high my elbow goes at the top! I have no idea how I managed to stick that. Food time and sleep ready for more sends the next day.
With everyone now having chosen their projects to smash out on these last two days, this was unfortunately my last day as I had to head back to Rhodes. Robin then gave me the task to keep the flashes high, aiming to Onsight 'Kulturistika' (7b), Flash 'Daphne'(7b) and get 'Alfredo Alfredo' (7b+) on my second go.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
Feeling pretty psyched, I warmed up on 'Feta' with Claire as she aims for an onsight (Roland belayed). We call over Megos to stick the draws in 'Kulturistika', with my back turned and covering my ears, he makes light work of the 7b. My go. I plan out my moves and explain to Robin what I plan on doing and make light work of the lower crux section - big undercut jug with a fairly big move to this sloping crimp rail, wide feet into the grim pinch, match hands, clip, move up the pinch then out another undercut, match and move into to the next pinch. I sort my feet out and make the next clip. From here, some asshat had ticked the outside of this foothold. From below it looks like a good spiked crimp. I move up to it and become so narrow minded that this is my next hold and end up dropping the onsight. Robin then tells me to go for the high we pinch with even higher feet and the rest is mega easy. At this point I'm so annoyed. Megos then says for me not to worry about dropping onsighs. People drop onsights 90% of the time. It's that 10% when everything goes perfect. At least I didn't have to wait year round for the perfect conditions or train ridiculously hard for specific moves. Claire then gave it a try but kindly insists that I get back on it as we haven't got much time until I have to leave.
I get back on it and make light work of the whole thing. So much so that the 7b feels like 6b. At this point I'm even more annoyed at myself for dropping it as it felt so easy. But I have to move on as time is pressing on. We both move onto to 'Daphne' where Danny is making his way up his flash attempt. He gets to the crux up in the top section making it look easy! He makes his way through the crux flicking to the last holds where his whole body comes away from the wall but he still just manages to hold on! He makes the last holds and clips the chains! We now go through the beta and it's now down to me to try to flash it.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
The first section feels fairly easy with a lot of good holds and rest with a few little spicy holds thrown in. I make it to the no hands rest where I stay for a while. The next section is fairly decent then out to this jug but with poor feet, right before the crux. At this point I'm quite pumped and just try to recover on this jug which isn't quite happening. I eventually decide to make a break for it. Into the pinch, clip, fumble around and go back down to the rest. I go again feeling fairly shaky and hit the side pull after the pinch near the last draw, adjust the feet and hit the last jugs in a completely different sequence than Danny, clipping the chains! Another 7b flash! Now to move onto 'Alfredo Alfredo' while Claire tries 'Daphne'.
Taking Megos with me, he puts in the draws and talks me through the moves while I watch everything he does in full detail. Again he makes light work of this 7b+. I attempt to go for the flash following ever one of Megos' moves but unfortunately drop it on this big power move to this pocket. I try again and fail. On the 3rd attempt I notice this intermediate and press on. The next section feels fairly easy and with a bit of pump get to the crozzily last part. I hit these 2 small crimps and throw for the last hold dragging my knuckles up the rock and slicing my fingers. The move felt easy but I missed the catch because of it. I come down, have a rest and give it another go.
Photo: Liam Lonsdale
Feeling fairly powered out, I get to the same section as I did before with the big move to the pocket. I hit the pocket but didn't quite catch it right. Again I work up the last parts feeling pretty tired. I get to these crimps and have to rest. The last move feels easy still though. There is a choice of another small crimp before the final jug but I didn't think I could hold it while fairly boxed. This was unfortunately my last go as I had to run back to the hotel, pack up everything and start my treck home.
The journey home was the biggest pain in the ass ever! I get to the ferry port where they tell me that my ferry has been cancelled and that there is nothing to Rhodes that day. Instead, they stick me on another ferry out to Kos that sets off 2 hours later in hope to catch a Kos to Rhodes ferry the following morning. With no Wifi and Eurotraveller not wanting to work I have to spend a ton of money cancelling my Rhodes hotel and booking one in Kos. Spend most of the evening frantically wondering about getting food and finding this hotel and spending a nice relaxing evening chilling and preparing for the annoying day to follow. Up early to catch the 7am ferry, I meet up with this random guy from Lituainia and his friends and we get chatting. We arrive in Rhodes and spend most of the day in the town before heading off to the airport for this guy to catch his earlier flight. I'm now left for 4 hours awaiting my flight alone when an hour later, Will from the Rocup group rolls into the airport on his newly acquired wheelchair - Will unfortunately damaged his ankle on the first day in Arginonta which then swelled up for the week. We get chatting and it turns out his (and a few others') flight to Athens was cancelled! He managed to grab the last seat on this flight from Rhodes (which flies a little bit after mine) and managed to get a flight from Kaly to Kos and from Kos to Rhodes. Apparently he was the only one on the flight to Rhodes. We get checked in, grab some food and await for the gates. Will doesn't seem to be having much luck as his flight was delayed! But it was time for me to head off back home. Getting back into the UK was mega easy and get home excited for my own bed!
Thanks to the Rocup crew for having me and the coaching. Massive thanks to Liam Lonsdale for the amazing shots as well as the banter. Cheers to the Meg-dog for being the quick-draw monkey, showing us the way and leaving our jaws permenantly on the floor. Thanks to the guys taking part, being mega friendly, belaying and be super cool to chill out with. I hope everyone got back safely and without too much hassle. Finally a big thanks to ClimbSkin for keeping my fingers going throughout the holiday and Tenaya for keeping my feet stuck on! Now currently awaiting a squad trip to Font and a trip to Siurana!
Left row to the right: Robin O'Leary, Hazel, Liv, Ian, Alex Megos, Ben West, Randy, Claire, Will, Me, Victoria, Mo, Cailean Harker, Danny, Gareth, Roland - Photo: Liam Lonsdale
After a session with Robin not too long ago, he invites me to come with him outdoors, probably Portland along with Matt Phillips (One-armed Matt) - you may have seen him on the "Yes I Can" superhumans advert climbing at Whitespider. After discussing about heading up to the peak and contemplating what to do, eventually we decide to go Portland to do some pebble dancing followed by a little bit of Deep Water Soloing (DWS), then if we're not too tired, some rope action - was keen to get back on 'Sign of the Vulcan'
I've never really done any proper bouldering over that way as I mainly go down for the routes and a little bit of DWS. Surprisingly a not too early start for me, I head over to Robins, pack up his car, pick up Matt and head down. I never really enjoy driving to Portland due to the amount of traffic I always get stuck in, which is exactly what happened. Luckily, Robin knows that area pretty well so we take a few shortcuts and gets us over to The Cuttings boulder-field.
With a prickly overgrown treck in, we make it to the warm up blocks and all of us smash out the easy V0-V2's. It was interesting watching Matt climb and see how he processes and works out problems. after all of this we head over towards Lightning Strike and Relativity a V7 and V6, both starting with this juggy mini roof section into this crimpy section. After going over the moves with Robin, both Matt and I give it a go.
With Matt making his way through the juggy section, he gets to the lip and can't quite get the right holds with his arm. Another person was trying the same problems to and managed to show us a completely different way that Robin had explained. His way looked much harder but unlocked a little bit for Matt. I give it a go, get through the jugs, get to the pinch, throw the heel up and into the next crimp, from here I'm meant to get a toe hook and bump my left hand to this undercut crimp but can't stick it as I'm a little off the move. Matt gives it a few more goes with the new beta but doesn't quite stick it but can get to the smooth slopey arête.
With a few more goes and slight adjustment, I manage to get to the little ear crimp, and get to the higher guppy with the right hand, from here there feet are a little awkward to find but you've got good crimpy jugs and the rest is fine. Pretty happy I managed a V7 in 4 goes! Especially in Portland where I'm not keen on limestone or crimpy problems. With Matt struggling to get the sequence for him, we look at Relativity just next to Lightning.
Again with Robin going over the beta, Matt gets on it and does incredibly well but there's one big span move that he can't quite do with his arm. Again, we re-arrange the beta for it to work with him and with every time he gets closer and closer.
My turn on it, easy jug section, sort out the feet, right hand into a meh intermediate then a big bump to a really good crimp. Sort out the feet, big lock into another crimp to steady then another bump into a good crimp. From here, it's bumping into a crimp and a jug, sorting out the feet and topping out. DONE! V6 FLASH! The only hard part was the big span. But even that didn't feel that hard. I think if you really didn't know good beta then it may have felt V6 but after topping it, personally I would've given it a V4 or maybe V5.
With Matt having a few more goes and getting pretty close, we decide to go for lunch and head to Portland Bill for Matt to try DWS for the first time. Parking up and a quick ice cream, we journey over to the rusty ladder where there are cliff jumpers diving in from the top out of this climb. Down the ladder and get set up on the ledge. For me, I didn't bring my old shoes, towel or spare kit as we decided DWS on the way down. I've tried this area before and wasn't keen to do DWS on the day so decided to became camera man. With Matt and Robin having fun, they also try the cliff jumping and the rope swing. 'Twas a bit dodgy as Matt kept letting go at the wrong point and nearly knocking him self out on the way back in and Robin hitting the roof when swinging in.
After a great day, we hit the pub for some poorly cooked steak and a pint. We then headed back and called it a day only for me to decide to stay at Robins to join him for Squad the next day.
8:30 start, bit of of a weighted fingerboard session with Robin. Max hangs on the Beastmaker 2000 which is set up between 4-8 degrees overhanging (depending on how much weight is added) and each of us showing our strengths. With Robin trashing me at pockets and slopers and me beating him at the crimp - surprising for me, we chill out for a bit before squad.
I haven't seen another team train before but jeeze these kids are strong and committed. With a warm up of ultimate frisbee, with myself and Robin joining, was a great warm up but my knees were destroyed afterwards - I haven't had a run in about a year and a half since being told I've got Osteoarthritis, my fitness was just as bad.
Heading inside the guys do their dynamic stretches, get kitted up and ready to test out the new route. With all age categories eventually getting up to the 7a mark with some pushing through to 7b+, it was ridiculous to see. These kids were committed, were dropping, and just really focussed on climbing rather than the other distractions. I wish I was able to focus like that without the fear of falling/landing. Was interesting also to see Matt again working on some indoor projects that looked hard for him. Right at the end he was working on a 7a and got most of the moves in his own way, he just needed to link it up and send it. To finish off the kids went for a bit of core and we all headed home.
Great to see the Surrey guys climb and get an insight to their training, especially as they seem more roped focussed. Was also good to get some climbing time with Robin as he always busy. Hopefully should be heading to Llanberis towards the end of the month with him and a few others - got our eyes on Bus Stop, Lizard king and Jerry's Roof.
With work going really well at the moment and it coming to the summer, I've decided to do some private 1:1 coaching during my free time.
One lass I've mentioned in a post or two before, Ce-Ce, has been dealt a pretty poor hand of cards. She has been climbing most of her life and can climb incredibly for her age but cannot seem to get any coaching due to where she lives. You can see this when she climbs - she just needs some direction.
A few years ago, she used to get sessions at The Reach which was good for the start but wasn't the right things for her at her age. With her background being mainly just climbing and learning from friends, she hasn't really had much guidance. But, hopefully this will begin to change in the near future. From seeing her compete at the JBBC's and Young guns, she has a great attitude when competing and connects really well with Luna from the VauxSquad.
There are a few things that she needs to work on but she has so much potential that hopefully, with my help and the help of some others she'll be able to climb and compete to her absolute limit. I hope she picks up leading again though. It just seems a shame to see such incredible talent that has so much potential to go to waste from lack of guidance which is the main reason I'm helping. Not only that she will get stronger and better because not only will she work damn hard to get there, she will listen to everything, take it on board and do it!
That time has come again, the VauxSquad Selection! The past year, this team has been an absolutely fantastic team to work with, with so many psyched kids that can just climb mega hard and that have come a long way since they started the squad. I cannot wait for the next team to start!
Friday, myself and the beast that is Ed Hamer set the Green/Pink (Grink) circuit. The plan was to set 25 problems overall, making 20 boulders for the younger 10-13 category and 20 for the 14+ (5 harder problems and take out 5 easier climbs). With grades ranging from VB-V7, there was plenty for all ages. Along with this we also had to set a circuit (starting at F5 going up to F7a) and a traverse (F4 up to F6b) to test their endurance.
It's always quite difficult to gauge the reaches of the kids, yes I know how far they reach, but whether they are strong enough to push to that reach. I know that a lot of the current squad don't enjoy dynos or coordinated blocks but it's always good to test this movement. Personally I hate climbing running coordinated problems but love setting them, the same with really delicate slabs. Maybe I'm just an evil setter that likes to see people struggle 😏
Nice early start for me to get into work. Found out the night before that I was going to run the day and had to prepare my spiel to say to the kids. Got in taped up the starts and prepared for the day. With it being the holiday season not many booked on or registered but nevertheless, we still started. With a brief introduction to who the judges of the day were (including Tricky), we began with a joint warm up to kick things off. With all going well, the crushers got crushing.
With strong starts by some and shakes starts by others, everything seemed to be going pretty well. Plenty of flashes to begin with to build confidence and get used to the set and then they Iris led the way onto the harder problems. One problem I set on the slab in the café was fairly study up until the last move which was this balanced heel hook to finishing on this no hold at the top. She spent ages trying to work it out and finally had the right idea. She got the heel and one hand to the finished and was slowly moving her other hand over but just lost balance last minute, agonisingly close. This then psyched everyone else up to giving it a go!
As the day progressed, these guys just seemed to get better and better, pulling things off I never even thought they would. One of our guys, Johnny, ran the show by flashing most of his problems and then getting a few on his 2nd go. I can't remember the exact number but I think he only left 1 or 2 problems which were pretty tough. He ended with the highest score not only in his younger age category but overall!
Really impressed by everyone that turned up with the squad making new friends and working together with brand new people it was fairly clear who was going to be selected. With the day wrapping up, we debrief the juniors, do a little prize giving and the judges head off to Nando's to make the deciding votes. I can't reveal who we selected but I can say that the team we chose look incredibly strong with a lot of potential to become great and that I cannot wait to get VauxSquad 3.0 started!
I've been trying to get back on a rope for a while now to build up some endurance and finally push to 8a's, but it's been a pain in the ass trying to find a partner to climb with, especially when working most evenings and being free during the day. I've been mad keen to get back to Portland to try a couple of routes to help with that and get on an on going project called 'Sign of the Vulcan' (7b+). I decided last minute to go but everyone else seemed busy but managed to get in touch with a coach that comes to Vaux that turned me to one of his clients.
I turn up and they're already trying 'Dumbfounded' this 7b slab route that's my complete anti-style. After a quick warm up, I jump on Dumbfounded to fail miserably. It starts off with this steady tiny crimp line, up to a flat jug, mega high right heel, rock over and press into this greasy slopey undercut then to some good crimps. From here you can have a little rest standing on the ledge before battling up the more powerful section - small cross through into a meh undercut, foot out, big throw up into this greasy flat side pull, left foot way out to this partial drop knee, adjust the right hand onto one of the higher crimps and press out into the break which is pretty good then plain sailing from there. I'm not one for crimping, flexible moves or shouldery presses which, looking at this route, I really need to work on. After a few breaks and coming back to it, I manage to do it in 2 sections, just one move I really struggle on due to the flexibility and inability to press (high heel rock over press just before the ledge).
During my breaks, I keep eyeing up Sign, trying to remember the moves. I remember that if you're tall you can make the first section mega easy but if you're my height and have a lack of shoulders then the first 2 clips have about 12 moves. After this, you need big biceps to go into a slopey but positive undercut, wide foot, match and then move out to a thin pinch and bump into a 2 finger flat pocket. Clip. From here it turns into blocky power moves when your already powered out from the first 12 moves. Left hand does the work, into bad crimp, bump into slight better crimp then deep lock and throw left hand into the Vulcan pocket 🖖. Personally I don't have the coordination to split my fingers like that that quickly so use mid 2 and index. From here, up to some goodish crimps then come out to the arête where there's a massive slopey jug or a positive razor crimp where you can get the next clip. Only problem is its hidden and I didn't trust myself enough or know about it to go for it until removing the draws after (abbing from another line). I didn't get around to doing the top section after bailing so much earlier but now I know for next time and will be stronger by then to cruise it!
Anywho, enough of Portland, time for Young Guns. So, Saturday just gone (2nd), The Castle hosted their squad selection event. With Mike Langley and Alex Fry setting, there was bound to be some good strong blocks. With many of our squad going to the White Spider comp the night before, only Luna and Iris from the VauxSquad turned up. We also had Ce-Ce, one of the VauxComp winners and friend join us in the comp. I didn't end up getting there until about an hour left with the younger category where Iris had been crushing!
After meeting up with her she has recently fell off this hard block and was feeling a little down, but after a quick turn around she got straight back into it stronger than ever! I went around with Ce-Ce looking at the problems and was discussing the look of one of the harder problems in the Loft (video). When it was time for Iris to get on she absolutely annihilated it! With loads of other blocks she dropped first go and trying again she eventually got most of the problems which placed her 3rd overall! A few little mistakes and that was the only problem and again, it happens and you just have to learn from it.
Time for the older two. After the brief warm up and ready to go, the girls start of easy and work their way up (like normal), leaving loads of easy stuff for the end. With every problem being a flash, even some tricksy problems in the loft as well as some easily droppable problems in the Comp Wall. Everything was going great then we hit one of the hardest problems out of the whole set. They gave it one try and rightly so, moved on. We finished off a few problems downstairs and got onto the second hardest problem. Both Ce-Ce and Luna dropped this on the first go, had a mega long rest and saw another competitor do it. With extra psych, they get back on it and Luna crushes it! Unfortunately Ce-Ce didn't get it on the 2nd but while Luna was completing some of her easy climbs, Ce-Ce crushes it on her 3rd try.
Now to finish off all the easy climbs, they are cruising through! Back onto the hard climb in the loft again. Both girls give it their complete all and got mega close! Both of them managed to get a hand onto the last hold but just couldn't hold it. T'was frustratingly close!
At this point I had to leave, but with live updates from Luna's dad, I hear their results. Luna qualifies in 1st place and Ce-Ce in 3rd! Couldn't have asked for a better qualifying result! I was sent some videos of the final blocks and they looked pretty tough but definitely do-able. Luna managed to crush all of them but on the last block dropped the first move which she defo could have flashed which unfortunately put her in 2nd place overall. I don't know how Ce-Ce performed but ended 5th. Both results are mega impressive and I'm really happy for the both of them. Even more so from Luna with competing the night before. Cannot wait to see these guys compete again and begin coaching Ce-Ce.
Back up to the Peaks again for a weekend of fun! I was planning on heading up for a bit longer but holding out due to the weather looking bad while Portland looked pretty good. Decided that morning that I couldn't ditch my friends and headed up pretty early as usual. Hitting The Outside shop for breakfast looking at the forecast saying 40% chance of rain from 1pm-8pm and trying to plan our day accordingly.
Tiger V4 - Burbage South (Photo: Diggs North)
Breakfast finished, we pack up and head to Burbage South to warm up and get on some nicer problems before the weather kicks in hoping that if there is light rain the wind will dry it quickly. Heading through some thick cloud and parking up at the north-side for a long walk in to work on stuff on the way back thinking this was going to suck, the weather finally starts clearing up and looking a bit better. After a quick warm up by the armored car and tank, we pop on a few easy V0/V1's and get the blood pumping.
Staring at 'Tiger' (V4) we all get on it and eventually complete the easiest one-move wonder ever and have a little play, making eliminates, and messing around on a few of the boulders next to it. Eventually getting bored we check the weather again, the 40% chance has moved from 1pm up to 3/4pm. Great! Over to Stanage to work on my project 'Brass Monkeys'.
Lunch By Voyager V13/V14 - Burbage (Photo: YY)
On the way back through Burbage North, we decide to have a gander/lunch at Voyager, the V14 (sit start) Nathan Phillips recently topped. The crimps look like dirt, the feet look pretty poor, would love to try but not soon!
Heading up the Business block (like usual), do some easy climbs again to warm up into it, and then look at Deliverance (V8) as one does because, why the hell not? After trying it over and over like I always do, still no cigar on catching the dyno. Time to move on to "IT"! Scoping it out again and again and after last times failed attempts at the first two moves, this time they feel pretty easy. Still weird but easy. Again piecing out the beta that works for me, I make it to the 3rd/4th move! this time with more pad, We stack them up and try the last section which feels fine! a bit of a battle but it'll go and I think the top section will be fine! Trying over and over, getting tired and with the midges starting to fly in, we plan to pack up, hit tut pub and call it a day.
Brass Monkeys V9 - Stanage (Photo Diggs North)
Looking through the menu craving the Camembert, followed by some steak they tell us they're all out! Gutted, we stop by the shop and grab some as well as ingredients for S'mores and have some fun with Diggs' camera and plan for tomorrow ;)
After a fairly comfortable sleep in the car for a change, getting up at 8am we pack down and head for Brekkie at the Outside shop. Quick sausage butty and another chat about the plan, we decide to go with Robins idea and head to Gardoms (call from the night before).
Marks Roof V8 - Gardoms (Photo Diggs North)
Now Gardoms.... Why have I not known about this place until now?!?! Grit climbing with the mix of some roofs, with only what seems like a few warm up climbs on some low ball roofs, Robin suggests looking at Mark's roof. Mark's roof is a V8 climb that starts off as a fairly easy muggy climb that slowly turns more outdoorsy and slopey. Got to the edge on my 1st try but couldn't work out the hard crux move. After trying with a heel which felt like I was getting close, I call up the big guns in aid for some beta... He says that the heel is way harder ad I should use a toe on the other side, jam my knee into the rock and swim my way up with some added nipple friction to help. With the sun shining brighter and the heat coming in, the grit is getting greasier and greasier. I give the problem a few more attempts this way and getting so close but the left hand slap was soooooo greasy.
In between attempts the other guys have a look at this tricksy V5 crispy route on the left of the roof, very powerful with fairly small crimps. Looking at some of the holds and my fingers where screaming.
Unfortunately I didn't end up getting the problems but am mega keen to go up soon and finish it. It doesn't seem that far off!
Now onto the JBBC's (Junior British Bouldering Champs) at the Manchester Depot. I highly recommend going up there if you're that way and it's raining. Massive centre with tons of problems, big showy holds, cool moves, great shapes and setting! The weekend after the trip to the peaks, myself and only one of the squad members (Luna) made our way up for the comp. Meeting a few friends, we prepare and start warming up and going round having a look at the problems to complete. Only 8 problems to do with 3 attempts each. Doesn't seem so bad really but when they're towards your limit and you've got only a few hours to complete, WITH pressure from other competitors and nerves (which don't help with others falling off) gets x10 harder.
Unluckily for Luna, she's one of the youngest now Youth B also making her one of the shortest. The first problem sherries was fairly straight forward with a biggish move into a pocket to start followed by a clock move; the route then finished with a fairly decent sized move to a crap hold and was fairlly stead from that. She read the whole thing perfectly and we had practiced moves like this in training before but really struggled with the first big move. 2nd try she got all the way out to the last crap hold but just couldn't make it. A little annoyed with her first route she meets up with Ce-Ce so cheer her on and have a little boost.
Onto the 2nd route. I couldn't really see much from this point as it was around the far side of the centre behind the island which spectators weren't allowed to go :/ again no luck with this problem and again moving onto the 3rd. After seeing lots of people drop the move, Luna started to doubt herself. It was a big committing move with a large swing, something she struggles with but she absolutely cruised up it like it was nothing! With a bit more psych and self belief we hit the other problems.
Long story short, it wasn't enough to make it in the finals but we learnt that there was work needed to be done and that she really shouldn't doubt her abilities. Saying that, that's one of the biggest things about a lot of the kids these days, most really seem to doubt yet surprise themselves every time they come up to a challenge.
Staying to test some of the blocks and watch the final, I can truly say that there are some mega strong juniors out there and good on them for doing as well as they have been doing. It only make me with that I started way younger than I did and made different choices than I have made; but, stuff happens and you got to roll with it.
From this, I think it's had a knock on effect with other things and being the time of year too has made me realise how lonely I've been. All my friends live in London which makes it awkward to see them or just chill out with, my best friend has moved 6 hours away and the single life has also started to affect me. Not only that but I haven't been sleeping, getting mainly 2-3 hours a night, I haven't been eating that much either, and I've started having panic and anxiety attacks too. I've spoken to a few people experienced in this who reckon that I have PTSD.
