To start off, setting the circuit board and traverse wall, plus some extra comp problems. 8am start with Matt V-C, with various other bits to do today Matt has the hard job of most of the set while I crack on with 3 traverses and 7 extra comp problems. A kids F4, fairly straight forward and standard, a Murple F6a just to mix things up - Murples are normally the V7+ set so it was quite nice to have a change where customers can pull on and feel good, plus it uses a lot of the jugs that sit out back gathering dust. Then a Red F6b/+ which had this really cool rock over on a high foot pressing out on a volume to a pocket, fairly boulder for a change. The extra 7 comp problems were 2 V1's, 2 V2's, 2 V4's, a V6. Again with the Murple out an undercutty V1 with poor mini jugs and some good feet as well as a Wasp twisty turny problems. The V2's being a Orange spot problem with a juggy pocket clock move turning into a few power moves towards the top and a corner tech balance Wasp. The V4 in the middle of the comp wall was probably my favourite out of the lot, volume for feet, big jug directly up to a slopey block with body fairly straight then a bit of a pop to a good jug, crossover to good volume pinch, out to a gaston, high foot on the catching jug and dynamic to the top. The other V4 being a balanced corner problems with a horizontal rock over/press to jug to finish. The V6 was a bit weird, jug to crimp, heel on the jug to cross over to a crimp, little pop to a good volume, out to and undercut, lock, cross to a mean little slot, s*** foot, to a side pull, angle yourself and get a toe hook for a crappy finish hold. Due to the crimps I couldn't test it but watching a friend on it, it looked pretty good!
Friday just gone, setting for LUBE (London Uni Boulder Event). No idea what the plan was, Tricky heads over to the wall to chat with The Boss about a plan. 25 blocks, and 3 harder ones. Tricky made a full plan of literally where everything was going to go which kinda makes things easier but kinda ruins the flow a little bit. After a very quick set, onto the test which was HARD! The V0-V5/6's were really nice and that's when it started to wear us down... then we got on the 7's-9's.... the V7 wasn't too bad to be honest, just a little committing which I wasn't quite keen on yet with my finger but the 8's and 9 - No chance, so tensioney but some really cool moves! Super happy with this set, even with the extra blocks. Looking forward to setting with Tricky again!A little weekend away with Frankie just to chill from work but back on the set again. This week was the flat walls at Vaux with Yann Genoux and one of the in-house setters, Olly. 49 Blocks were set ranging from VB/Intro - V7+. Not many volumes on this set as the last was very heavy. I started off with the Green VIntro circuit just to smash them up out of the way so we could set around them while Yann starts with the V7+ Murples. After went to Blue V4-6 (my favourite set), White V2-V4 and dabbled in the Purple V0-V1 and Red V1-V3 set while Yann completed the others. Olly joined a little later to help with the Reds and Purples. Personally I'm a big fan of Yann's setting, its normally really flowy, has a bit of hidden beta as well as being fairly similar to my climbing style. Testing time! not much tweaking needed at all on both parts. Favourite problem has to be a Blue I set on the mini overhang to slab, you can do it two ways either doing a low heel/toe traverse along the bottom to a big push up at the end or a more balancey slab walk across the top with a little double thumb-dercut to help you across to the finish. Was so close to flashing one of Yann's V7's! thought I wouldn't ever be able to with the state of my finger but I'm glad there's been recovery and progress!
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