10 Nov 2015

VauxSquad and Blokfest!

For nearly a year now, Vaux has had a Junior Performance Squad otherwise known as the VauxSquad that has had various different coaches with myself, Louis Parkinson, Sandra Berlin and Tom Hull as the main coaches and Robin O'Leary as the head coach.

It all started with a cool little selection process inviting locals and regulars from the junior club. The selection was a closed event hosted at Vaux with myself and Mike Langley from The Castle setting loads of blocks with ridiculously tiny crimps and small moves, testing everyone's route reading abilities as well as their strength, power, endurance and a combination of those. Unfortunately I wasn't there for the event, but the other coaches selected eleven juniors ranging in ages and skill level, also taking into account their passion for climbing as well as their willingness to learn and potential.



At the beginning, I don't think the squad really knew what they were in for in terms of how they were going to be training as well as the privileges they got. I'm still stoked by the privileges they get and I wish I had the opportunity they had, being sponsored by Scarpa and the Wall getting various free or mega cheap stuff! Endurance was the main focus at the start and building up fundamental skills getting everyone to the same level, from placing feet perfectly to how to use your body correctly. Many of the kids didn't enjoy (and some still don't) working endurance but it needed to be done and what the man (Robin) says, goes! Progressing through the terms was excellent, with some progressing more than others which is the best thing to see being a coach, your work finally paying off. I have to say, I think I've progressed as a person and a coach and without Robin's guidance and my teams help, it wouldn't have happened!

With one coach, two squaddies leaving as well as others being busy with work, we gained a few more coaches to help out, these being Jack Shorten and Katya Creed. With a new and improved team the squad progressed even more, and not just in their climbing, but their mental game as well. Many began competing in the VauxComps and gaining "podium" places winning prizes that excelled their confidence even more. Even if they didn't win prizes, they all supported each other and never had tension between the ones that did!

Boulder comp season was back in and the VauxSquad finally ready! With new uniforms and many with fairly new shoes it was time to hit Blokfest. For those who don't know, Blokfest has various different rounds at various different walls with Gaz Parry as one of the main setters and organisers of the event. With the first round being at Westway, the squad head down for their first time competing as a team.

Arrival at 9:30 to get checked in, warmed up and ready to crush - They all seemed pretty confident to be honest, I think I was the most nervous! While waiting for the other member to arrive the squad went round marking up the easy, medium and hard routes, ready for when the time comes. After the warm up the team started off together on the easier blocks first with some nerves but no slips. moving onto some of the harder ones with many of them smashing them out while other had a little confidence knock but soon getting back on the horse to top a load of others. Slowly progressing through the hard problems with not that many falls the team still continued and supported each other as well as other competitors, probably being the loudest team there! It was awesome just to see smiles on each members face with no tears and everyone staying positive was fantastic to see. I was getting psyched watching the team and desperately wanted to pull on in the evening but thought it best considering my finger.

Beginning to get tired, with a little snack, the team start pyramiding down and gaining those extra point they needed. With results being counted we grab a quick chill and rest and had a chat about what they thought and how well they thought they did. With everyone happy with their scores, we head back in to hear the prize giving. Unfortunately no podium places, but mega impressed with each member, especially one that was 3 points off third place and with one point between each podium meant that she was 6 points from first! With a super proud coach it was time to for the over 16's to start and time to leave. Louis stayed on to compete as well as help out and from what I hear the squad done really well and was all impressed with their scores!

With the BMC Open Youth Competition coming up on the 22nd and other Blokfests on the way, I can't wait! I can't believe how far the Squaddies have come and awesome it is to be a part of such a fantastic enthusiastic team! Thanks Vaux and Scarpa!


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